The Hainanese Influence in Penang’s Cuisine

By Ong Jin Teong

June 2018 FEATURE
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Dinner at the old Hollywood Restaurant, with chicken pie on the table. The author’s father is seated on the right with his old friends from the Chinese Swimming Club.
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Here are some tips on how to capture the taste of yesteryear.When I began writing the chapter on Hainanese influences for my first book, Penang Heritage Food, which was published in 2010, I wondered why the Hainanese were cooking Nyonya food in their restaurants. I soon worked it out – I remember my mother telling me that her father, Khoo Beng Chiang,1 had a full-time Hainanese cham phor (chef) in their house; he cooked both Nyonya and Western food.Many well-to-do Nyonyas had...

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Ong Jin Teong

is an engineering and food consultant. He conducts cooking classes, does research on Nonya and heritage cuisine, and hosts the occasional supper club. He has published two award-winning books: Penang Heritage Food – Yesterday’s Recipes for Today’s Cook and Nonya Heritage Kitchen – Origins, Utensils and Recipes.


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