A New Era Comes to Balik Pulau
Penang Island’s hinterland beyond the hills is developing on many fronts. Penang Monthly introduces some surprising examples.
All that, however, is quickly changing.
Modern developments now dot the township, with many more in the pipeline. Beautiful street art adorns previously blank, sun-bleached walls. Agriculture, the area’s traditional primary industry, is thriving and growing. And the émigrés are coming back – some right back to their family’s hometown. Newcomers are starting families of their own there. Be it for the durians, the pastoral getaways or fulfilling the dream of owning a home on solid ground, locals and outsiders are making their way to Balik Pulau.
Back to Basics
There is an illusion that small-town folk cannot wait to get out into the dynamic urban world. Kampung Genting native Wong Eng Huat, 40, lasted half a year away from the hills and estates of Balik Pulau.
Balik Kampung at Balik Pulau
Balik Kampung at Balik Pulau
As part of an Astro television show called Balik Kampung, the couple welcomed a child from KL into their home in 2014 for a cultural exchange between city and village folk. “Over the three days we realised that our eldest son was more of a city kid than a kampung boy after all. There were many things that he didn’t know about, for example, playing with marbles or how to choose a durian. He was like a typical city boy but staying in Balik Pulau!” Chin exclaims.
It was then that the idea of Balik Kampung at Balik Pulau took root. Utilising an almost-one acre plot of land that his father had bought several years ago, Eng Huat began transforming marshland in Kuala Jalan Bahru into a place where his three sons could connect with nature. A sheltered events space was raised up front followed by a fish pond, a boating pool, a stage and a small wooden house on stilts for firefly viewings after dark. The initial idea was to provide cycling tours, but this was quickly expanded to educational tours, inspired by frequent visits to the site by nature enthusiast and Chin’s old high school classmate, Khoo Poh Hong, who came to observe and document the rich array of flora and fauna in the area.
Those lessons are integral to the two types of tours that Balik Kampung at Balik Pulau now offers: the Sunset Tour, a one-and-a-half hour bicycle ride through scenic paddy fields and to a rich mangrove forest, ending with an unbeatable view of the sunset, and the Educational Tour, which includes crab fishing (provided the tide is right), traditional games, boating, giant bubble making and a visit to a nearby bedak sejuk (cooling powder) factory.
In Balik Pulau, prices of food and goods have managed to remain relatively low and this is reflected in the unbeatably low prices of these guided tours, ranging from RM10 to RM40. Launched in November last year, the tours have been very well received during school holidays and expectedly slower at other times.
The spillover effects, however, have been priceless for the couple. “I come here with the boys on weekends and they go crazy catching praying mantises and grasshoppers, and then they go home and search the Internet for more information on them. They now say they want to be entomologists when they grow up,” Chin says.
A New Breath of Life
In Botanica.CT, Balik Pulau’s largest township development, construction on a contemporary shopping mall is set to start soon. Michelle Goh, the marketing manager for MTT Properties & Development that is developing the township, says if all goes well, ground will be broken later this year.
“The total land area for the shopping mall is six to seven acres and will take about two to two-and-a-half years to complete. The place is slated to be right in the front portion of the development and visible from the road (Jalan Sungai Pinang) when one is driving up from Balik Pulau town,” she says.
The shopping hub, the first of its kind in the town, will consist of single and double-storey
shophouses filled with retail and al fresco F&B outlets dotted with lots of greenery to suit Balik Pulau’s natural theme. They will lead up to a three-storey building that will house the mall’s anchor tenant.
The mall is just one of six non-residential phases of Botanica.CT, understood to be the first garden township to be built from scratch in the state in over three decades. Two other phases have already been completed: Prince of Wales Island International School (POWIIS), which opened in September 2011; and Botanica Mansion: a clubhouse, gym and dining area centred around a beautifully restored 1881 English mansion completed in November last year. Three more non-residential projects – a medical centre, five-star hotel and retirement resort – are on the cards and will be developed over the next decade.
On the residential side, a total of nine big parcels containing 11 phases of construction are planned out, of which six phases will include the building of low-cost homes, apartments and other landed properties. “We foresee that the whole township development will be completed in less than 10 years, probably between six to eight years with many things moving concurrently,” Goh says.
On preserving and maintaining the relaxed spirit of Balik Pulau, Goh says MTT is working hard to keep the overall density of the area low. “This all started when (MTT group executive chairman) Datuk Dr Kenny Ong cycled across this piece of land with his friends and fell in love with it. That’s why he decided to build more landed property than apartments here. Our supermarket, too, is not going to be a place where only the affluent can shop. It will have enough for everyone’s needs and we’re also looking at supporting the local farming industry here by having farmers’ markets on certain days of the week,” she says.
An Affordable Township
“In urban areas in town, there is no more land and no place to develop. We have to look to either the ‘other’ side of the island or to the mainland, where Batu Kawan already contains the lion’s share of the state’s affordable housing programme. We have to reconcile development with a place like Balik Pulau, which is in the outskirts and still very green. We have to ensure that the development is sustainable and does not impinge on the positive aspects of the township,” he says.
To be sure, Balik Pulau has never been the first choice for property seekers, but things are swiftly changing with young professionals and first-time homebuyers turning their sights in that direction.
“Since I took over the housing portfolio three years ago, I’ve seen a steadily increasing number of applications for Balik Pulau. The key factor is that it’s affordable – that is the main thing when it comes to housing in Penang,” Jagdeep says.
While space in Balik Pulau may be a solution for Penang’s growing population and expanding middle class, the state is keen to maintain the original spirit and culture of the old town. To this end, the process of regulating the rezoning of land use, house pricing and an appropriate density come into play.
The recent approval for 16-storey apartment blocks in the township has some residents taken aback, but Jagdeep reassures them that this is as high as it is going to get. “We have approved projects that go up to 16 storeys – 12 storeys of apartment units and a four-storey podium carpark – but we are very cautious about allowing anything more because we don’t want it to be too high density.
On affordable housing, Jagdeep says it is imperative that authorities get Balik Pulau started on the right foot. “One of the attractions of having housing in Balik Pulau is that the land cost is not as expensive as in other parts of the island. Developers can build more affordable houses there and, as a result, there is a natural demand. The land cost is still much, much less, although as we speak, it is actually increasing. It is affordable vis-à-vis buying in Jelutong or Tanjung Bungah. Last time in Balik Pulau, you could get a semi-detached house for RM300,000 or RM400,000. Now, it is at RM800,000 in just a few years,” he says.
Adding that in the last decade parcels of Balik Pulau land went from being sold for price per acre to price per sq foot, Jagdeep says the growth in infrastructure and connectivity between the township and its neighbouring districts would only increase its attractiveness. “That is why I am very concerned about pushing affordable housing there. If I don’t get that started now, there is going to be a time when nothing is affordable in Balik Pulau. We don’t want that to happen,” he says.
A Home Away from Home
While young homebuyers and retirees have seriously started seeing Balik Pulau as a place for building a home, the serenity of the place has also begun to attract a different crowd: tourists.
Homestays are quickly becoming the trend in Penang, even in Balik Pulau, where hand-painted signs advertise available rooms for those passing through. Several, however, stand distinctly apart, either due to their amenities, location or history.
"The resort immediately appealed to their love of rustic living. With the help of friends, they sourced 10 traditional Lanna teak rice barns from an antique dealer in Chiang Mai. They also sourced a lot of building materials, furniture and fitting from around the region,” says the couple’s daughter and Malihom director Daryl Yeap. She adds that the barns were constructed using tongue and groove joinery which allows them to be dismantled. “Every single piece, from the roof shingles to the flooring, was dismantled, numbered and packed into a container before being shipped to Penang,” she says.
To replace the formerly barren landscape, over 3,000 shrubs and other greenery were planted over the course of the seven-year construction period. What stands now is an exquisite and exclusive escape for all its guests. “Malihom is a place to unplug and get away from urban stress. One of the charming features about Malihom and a key reason for guests to come back again and again is that we are off the beaten track and relatively low key. Most of our guests stay with us for privacy,” Daryl says.
Although the hub of the estate lies in the main wing that houses the reception, dining and living areas, the beautiful Lanna rice barns are clearly the heart of Malihom with eight available for rental. They are collectively located on top of a hillock 1,000 feet above sea level with sweeping views of the city, Penang Bridge and the mainland on the East, and paddy fields, the open sea and Pulau Betong on the West.
Tucked away deep in Pulau Betong, SeaHarvest began the process of hatching their own oysters in 2009 after a decade-and-a-half of commissioning them from outside sources. “In the beginning, we engaged local fishermen to collect oysters from the wild. However, the supply was inconsistent. Some months we could get a few thousand, while other months saw none at all. Eventually, we began importing our oysters from Thailand and Myanmar but as the business grew, the prices demanded from us also grew and the supply remained somewhat inconsistent,” he says.
The solution was easy to identify, though hardly simple to execute. “In the aquaculture industry, you must have your own hatchery. You cannot depend on nature to supply you with the stock you need,” says Alan, who is a chemist by profession. With help from the Ministry of Science, Technology & Innovation’s (MOSTI’s) TechnoFund grant scheme, SeaHarvest collaborated with two lecturers from Universiti Sains Malaysia’s School of Biological Sciences to start the hatchery.
The result is that SeaHarvest can produce up to a million oyster seeds every month. The added plus point of their particular method of harvesting is that the seeds can be moved even after they have undergone the process of attachment and become what is known as “spats”. “In nature, oysters spawn, swim around as larvae and then attach somewhere where they become immobile for the rest of their lives. In our hatchery, even after they ‘attach’, we can transfer them. Oysters are actually very hardy,” Alan says, without divulging the company’s trade secrets.
SeaHarvest hatches and grows oysters to an inch in length in a four-month process that involves larvae tanks, settlement tanks, nursery tanks, and a two-acre man-made nursery pond. The young oysters are then sent to contract farms for another eight months to reach their full size of three to four inches. SeaHarvest then markets them to hotels and restaurants.
Alan, like shrimp and fish farmers in other areas like Teluk Kumbar and Gertak Sanggul, remains cautious about development in Balik Pulau, particularly the proposal of three man-made islands to be reclaimed off the coast of Permatang Damar Laut. If approved, the 4,100-acre project – which will need the nod of the National Physical Planning Council headed by Prime Minister Najib Razak – will fund the state’s RM27bil Penang Transport Master Plan that includes the Light Rail Transit (LRT), monorail lines and an undersea tunnel linking the state’s island and mainland under the North Channel.
“It will affect the water, so it will affect us. In all honesty, aquaculture doesn’t work well together with development. But we always knew that eventually, Penang would be developed, so we have been preparing for alternatives,” he says.
Balik Pulau – Where Cottage Industries Still Survive
There are many small and traditional family businesses located in the sleepy hamlet of Balik Pulau. Those that thrive do so by being small scale and relying on family and a handful of workers. Penang Monthly visits three of these enterprises.
Faridah’s Kuih Bahulu
Since 2002, Faridah Ali has been producing and selling this kuih. “I started the business with friends at first before running it by myself,” she says.
“The idea began from an initiative by the Ministry of Agriculture and Agro-based Industry, under the Women’s Development Group (Kumpulan Perkembangan Wanita) project that provides courses and seminars on business and marketing to enable local women to start their own businesses,” says Faridah.
Flour, eggs, sugar and vanilla plus years of experience and expertise are the ingredients needed to produce the delicious kuih bahulu.
“The process takes several steps, beginning with kneading the mixture of flour, eggs and sugar. I sometimes put in a little bit of flavour, which varies depending on the type of kuih bahulu I’m making. Then the dough is fitted into moulds and baked in the oven,” said Faridah.
She also has a variety of moulds to match the needs of customers: “People can request kuih bahulu with unique designs and colours for special occasions.”
Faridah usually makes 600 to 700 pieces of kuih bahulu twice a week, but this amount can increase during the holiday season. To meet demand, she employs two helpers from the same community. Each has their own duty: kneading, baking, and packaging. Faridah hopes to one day pass on her skills and expertise to her children if any of the six decide to take up the business.
Address: Sebelah 220, MK D, Jalan Baru, Balik Pulau, 11000, Pulau Pinang
Chop Kim Hoa Belacan
Heading off from the town centre towards Pulau Betong, we meet Lo Eng Joo at his residence-cum-factory where half a dozen workers process the popular belacan (shrimp paste) used in Malay, Chinese, and Nyonya cuisines. Jointly owned by four siblings, Chop Kim Hoa Belacan Factory is a third-generation family business.
“My grandfather started this and ran a small factory in Batu Feringghi. It was then passed on to my father who moved here. We have been doing this for about 60 years now,” says Lo.
“We mostly cater to the Penang market, but we also export and distribute all over Peninsular Malaysia, all the way to Johor. Some clients buy in bulk and export to Australia, England, and Holland. That’s how we spread, I think. By word of mouth.”
Lo explains the process of making belacan, from krill to block: “The krill are first caught by fishing boats and immediately mixed with salt. Upon reaching the factory, the catch is placed on a sieve to drain out the water and later spread out to dry under the sun for about three hours. After the dried krill are passed through a grinder, they are stored to ferment for two weeks. We repeat this process three times. After two to four months, we take them out to dry and grind again. The thick paste will then be moulded, cut, and packaged into rectangular blocks.”
“There are methods that can produce belacan faster, but the taste is not as thick; the scent and colour is also different. We prefer to ensure the highest quality,” says Lo. “We also need to watch out for contamination,” he was quick to add. “The presence of mud or fish will change the product’s taste, smell and texture.”
With increasing demand and the fact that every 3kg of krill only yields 1kg of belacan, they get krill from outside the state, from as far away as Terengganu. Even that, Lo says, is not sufficient for their usage. On top of that, production is also vulnerable to bad weather: “Rain slows down manufacturing.”
In spite of that, the business has been a success. “It helps that we all stay in this neighbourhood – all four siblings reside in Balik Pulau,” says Lo.
Does he plan to pass it down to the fourth generation? “It depends whether they want to. My children work elsewhere for now. One of my brother’s sons is working here. When they were small, they all helped out after school. So we’ll have to see lah.”
Address: No. 390, MK. 7, Pulau Betong, Pulau Pinang, 11020 Balik Pulau, Malaysia
Lean Seng Bedak Sejuk
There was a change of guard early this year when Yeoh Siong Huat took over from his father, Yeoh Keng Beng.
“My brother and I are the second generation. Our dad, helped by our mum, has been doing this for 30 years. It’s plenty of work.”
“Plenty” is an understatement. Though making bedak sejuk requires only rice and water, it is a tedious process that takes up to a month.
“First, broken rice is washed and soaked for a month to ferment. We have to change the water every week because of the smell,” explains Siong Huat.
“After that, we wash the rice and grind it. We use a cloth to filter the fermented rice pulp and hang it out to dry for 10 hours. After that, a piping bag is used to squeeze the pulp into tiny tear-shaped drops on a tray. We leave it to sun for one to two hours a day over four or five days – we can’t put it out all day because it will crack under high temperatures. If it rains, this step can take up to two weeks. I do this from 8am till noon, non-stop. I can’t even eat because I have to watch the weather and also keep an eye on the timing of the process.”
It also doesn’t seem financially sustainable to hire labourers given their small-scale production and their wish to keep prices low.
“Rice is also getting expensive, but we can’t sell our goods expensively. Others sell at a higher price, like RM10 per bottle compared to our RM4 per bottle. We sell them from our house. Some people buy from us and distribute elsewhere, like Chowrasta Market or Malacca.”
Keng Beng adds, “We use pandan leaves for natural fragrance, unlike others who buy stock from us and then add perfume.”
Siong Huat left his factory job late last year and will now continue with the business for the foreseeable future. “In the old days, my father couldn’t do much alone – people would place their orders but we couldn’t take too many of them. We do not export to other countries because the fees are costly. So for now, we cater to local demand and loyal customers.”
Their commitment to this traditional, homemade trade is awe-inspiring. At a time when cosmetic products are expensive, foreign and artificial we have here a father-and-son team making their own bedak sejuk and selling it to fellow Penangites at little profit.
Address: Lean Seng Bedak Sejuk, Kuala Jalan Bahru, 11000, Balik Pulau
Ooi Kok Hin is an INTP who lives to write and writes to live. Follow him at https://www.facebook.com/ooikokhin.
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Khairunnisa’ Ahmad Mokhtar is a property analyst by day and a coffee connoisseur by night.