The Legacy of Taste

loading Tai Buan is helmed by father and son.

Some dishes don’t change on the streets of Penang.

There are some things in life that never change. Taste is one: a dish from childhood – the certain way a char siu is marinated and barbecued to the perfection that a six-year-old will remember forever – so perfect it shapes a child’s palate that no Michelin-star restaurant will ever reproduce such mouthwatering distinction.

There is a place on Lebuh Chulia – just before the turning into Rope Walk – that has been there since as far back as my memory can serve me. There are a lot of such places, I will admit, but not many where I have seen Sunday brunches with my late grandparents, my grandfather shovelling the meats into his mouth (that man lived to eat), me propped up on two plastic stools stacked atop each other – too big for a baby chair, too short for an adult chair.


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